Cheese with Lambrusco

Lambrusco, a mildly sparkling red wine, hails from the same region as Parmigiano Reggiano, and the classic pairing is an instructive model for what to do with Parm-like cheeses.

Dense and waxy with intermittent crunch from protein crystals, Parm is actually quite acidic. It's not butterscotchy and candied the way aged Goudas can be, and that mouthwatery edge is necessary to keep sometimes lightly-sweet Lambrusco from coming off like Manischewitz.

Other choices that work well are Grana Padano, Piave, or the delicious Sardinian mixed-milk Podda Classico. A big, broad bubble mines the paste, and the pairing is reminiscent (in the best way) of peanut butter and jelly.